ARTools - All about brushes!

BRUSH STYLES

HAKE - A hake brush is an oriental-style wash brush on a long flat handle. It is useful for laying in large areas of water or color, for wetting the surface, and for absorbing excess media.
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FAN - Flat ferrule, spread hairs. Natural hair is more suitable for soft blending, and synthetic works well for textural effects. Useful for smoothing and blending, special effects and textures.

MOP - A mop is a round, full version of the wash brush, made of soft, absorbent natural hair. It is useful for laying in large areas of water or color, for wetting the surface, and for absorbing excess media.

OVAL WASH - Wash brushes come in varied shapes. The oval wash has rounded hairs, flat ferrules, and produces a soft edge, with no point. A wash brush is useful for laying in large areas of water or color, for wetting the surface, and for absorbing excess media.

ROUND - Round ferrule, round or pointed tip. Available in a wide variety of sizes, lengths, and price ranges. Useful for detail, wash, fills, and thin to thick lines. Favorite beginner brush for scholastic artwork.

QUILL/WRITER - Plastic or natural quill ferrule, with a permanent or detachable handle. Long hairs, and a natural-shaped tip. The writer has a round ferrule and a short handle. Useful for lettering and poster work. Good on smooth surfaces such as glass.

FILBERT - Thick, flat ferrule and oval-shaped medium to long hairs. Long handles. Natural hair is more suitable for blending because the hairs hold together when wet. With its soft rounded edges, the filbert is suitable for blending and figurative work.

FITCH - Straight edges and chiseled sides set in a rounded ferrule. Long handles. Lots of color carrying capacity. Used for applying lots of color. Effective on textured surfaces.

SQUARE WASH - Wash brushes come in varied shapes. The square wash can produce varying shapes and widths, and often has a short, "flat-footed" handle for scraping, burnishing, and separating watercolor paper from blocks. A wash brush is useful for laying in large areas of water or color, for wetting the surface, and for absorbing excess media.

ONE-STROKE - Flat ferrule, square-ended medium to long length hairs. Short handles. Large color carrying capacity. Useful for painting block letters in a single stroke.

FLAT - Flat ferrule, square-ended, with medium to long hairs. Provides lots of color capacity and easy maneuverability. Use for bold, sweeping strokes, or on edge for fine lines. Use heavier filling for heavier paint.

BRIGHT - Flat ferrule, short-length hairs, usually set in a long handle. Width and length of brush head is about equal. Useful for short, controlled strokes, and with thick or heavy color.

POINTED ROUND - Narrower than a standard round. Round ferrule, sharply pointed tip. Natural hair holds a sharper point. Used for fine detailing, fine lines, spotting, and retouching.

LETTERER - Also known as a "showcard" brush, the letterer has a round ferrule, and is square-ended, with short to long-length hairs. Short handle. Large color carrying capacity. Suitable for lettering by skilled manipulation and for poster work.

HIGHLINER - Also known as an outliner. Round ferrule, square-ended brush, with extra-long hairs and a short handle. Large color carrying capacity. Useful for delicate lettering, outlining, and long continuous strokes.

SCRIPT/LINER - Pointed, narrow brush with very long hair. Liners are shorter and narrower. Short handles, round ferrules. Large color carrying capacity. Useful for delicate lettering, highlighting, outlining, and long continuous strokes.

Image and verbiage supplied by Dick Blick Art Materials - www.dickblick.com

TIPS from the Director

BRUSH STYLES and USES

NATURAL - Natural hairs such as squirrel, badger, sable, ox, boar, goat, and/or mongoose. Can be a combination.

All Media. I prefer a white or kolensky sable for watercolors, and boar bristle or squirrel for oils.

SYNTHETIC - Hairs that are man made from chemicals and/or fibers. Usually nylon.

Less expensive than natural hair but may be unsuitable for certain media. You can find information on which media it is made for on the rack it is displayed in. If not, ask your dealer. I like to use synthetic brushes for rough surfaces, such as walls, cement, and ceramics. Synthetic brushes are less expensive and easier to replace when the rough textures wear them down.

COMBINATION - Natural and synthetic hairs blended together.

May be unsuitable for certain media. Again, you can find information on which media it is made for on the rack it is displayed in. If not, ask your dealer.

BRUSH CARE

When painting, try not to dab or push against the hairs. Use strokes that flow in the same direction as the hairs (from ferrule to tip).

NEVER set brushes to rest in your water or solvent container. Nothing ruins a brush quicker!

Keep brushes clean, and never allow a brush to dry with paint or ink in the bristles. If you use an oil or lacquer based paint, use the proper thinners or solvents to remove the majority of the media. Use warm soapy (glycerin based soaps are best) water, rinse well, and allow brushes to dry flat or suspended (tip down). Brushes that dry upright (with point in the air) will begin to collect particles in the ferrule and will soon become less absorbent and will begin to fan out.

To keep natural brushes "snappy" dip tips in vinegar before allowing them to dry flat or suspended. Paint can be very alkaline. Vinegar is an acid (like the natural oils and sweat) and will help to keep the hairs in their natural healthy state.

Store brushes in a flat firm container that will not allow brushes to move about. My favorite brush holder is a Sumi rolling brush mat. Used for centuries by Japanese and Chinese calligraphers and painters. Usually they are made of a firm grass, wicker, bamboo, or synthetic strips, woven together by threads to create a flat mat when rolled out (Great to keep brushes laying flat while in use!). The brushes are then rolled tightly in the mat and a braided string wraps around with a closure bobbin that inserts between the strands. I dry my brushes inside the rolled mat (air can circulate) and if I pay attention and remember which end my tips are on, I can suspend them (tips down) in a jar or cup while they dry. While stored, brushes stay flat without the tips being bent, and it goes everywhere! Cost is between 3.00 and 20.00 US dollars (depending on style), and they can be found at any major art supply. Be careful of canvas brush holders, as the canvas can become limp over time, and may no longer protect tips.

Brushes can be very expensive. As you become more experienced you may want to invest in better brushes, so it pays to practice caring for your brushes even if they are not costly. You'll have great working brushes every time you use them, and they will last for years!